After I finished the article on Annie, I realized I had more questions about the climbs she made. Perhaps some of you do, too. So, for this column, I will do something a bit different. I’ve asked Annie four questions about the climb. Read on to learn her answers. After you have read them, if you have further questions, please send them in the comments section at the end of this column, and I will get answers from Annie and print them here, as well.
Here’s what I asked her:
- Were you ever scared during your climbs? “There were times I got worried, but very rarely scared. I was scared when I was awakened and thought a crevasse was going to open and swallow me when the ice groaned and cracked deep below my tent on Denali. Also, fear gripped me when the first climber on my rope team fell into a crevasse and I hoped we’d be able to hold him from not going too far. Luckily, we did, though we had to do a real crevasse rescue to get him out. Otherwise, I was most scared rock climbing. I never did it very much but it was always free climbing, and I was always afraid I was going to fall and break bones, whether I was 10 feet up or 25 inches. I always thought of a friend who was a Swiss mountain guide. He fell in the Alps and broke 15 bones in his feet. He had to walk 5 miles out after that happened. I don’t know how he did it
- Was it hard to learn how to walk in snowshoes? I don’t remember anyone having any trouble using snowshoes. Although some of the people could ski well, we used the snowshoes to have a level playing field with all the expedition members. Snowshoes were also a help for crevasses as, at that time, the snowshoes were longer and would more easily help wedge a climber into the sides of the crevasse, preventing a deep fall. I remember reading about a McKinley climb in the early 80s with Jim Wickwire. His climbing partner fell into a crevasse. The fellow was lodged head down and Jim could not get him out.
- Did you use ropes, pitons, or other climbing gear at all while climbing the mountain? We were always roped up on the mountain — lower down for the possibility of crevasses and higher up, where it was steeper, for falls. There was a fixed line on Denali’s Headwall from about 15,500 feet to the ridge at 16,200 feet. We would use our jumars (mechanical ascenders attaching us to the fixed line) to go up that one 45 to 50 degree section, the steepest part of the climb. Then, hiking from 16,200 feet to the bowl at 17,200 feet was the most dramatic part of the climb because the ridge occasionally narrows to perhaps 2 to 3 feet across, and drops off dramatically on both sides. You are totally exposed and many climbers have lost gear here, which has tumbled down to the Peters Glacier far below. I’ve read that there are now fixed lines around Washburn’s Thumb on the ridge. We always had our ice axe, as well. We practiced doing belays, self-arrests, and crevasse rescues before every climb.
Did you have to rappel from anything during the climb? No, we didn’t do any rappels on Denali or Aconcagua. The only rappels I’ve done have been totally for fun and practice, both off cliffs and into crevasses.
Okay, readers, now it’s your turn. If you have further climbing questions for Annie, please post them at the bottom of this article. Hoping to hear from some of you.